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"Through turbulence and peace, the valley stands tall": Lal Chowk, Srinagar's heart, charts a tale from political fervor to darkness and now, resurgence. Decades of change, it's a testament to Kashmir's spirit and the valley's stride towards peace
Lal Chowk, situated at the heart of Srinagar, isn't merely a bustling business hub. More significantly, this iconic location encapsulates the vibrant political spirit of Kashmir. Throughout the last century, a multitude of figures, each with distinct narratives and ideologies, have leveraged its symbolic value to stage their grand statements.
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Picture this: on a joyous evening commemorating India’s Independence Day, the ambiance at Lal Chowk was nothing short of celebratory. The square teemed with exuberant Kashmiris, their spirits high. They danced jubilantly around a fountain, rejoiced beneath the newly reconstructed clock tower, and captured memories, snapping photos from every conceivable angle. Throughout the day, numerous individuals and groups reveled in the festivity, proudly waving the Indian national flag and capturing the moment in photographs and selfies.
Yet, the fountain couldn't quite hold the overwhelming excitement as it cracked under the weight of the celebrants. An enthusiastic individual even tried to extract the 'L' from ‘LALCHOWK’ as a personal keepsake. The surrounding edifices gleamed, bathed in a radiant glow - a stark departure from the somber aura that had enshrouded Lal Chowk not too long ago.
Roll back the years a bit, and you'd find Lal Chowk often dominated by grim sights: the stark coils of concertina wires, heavy paramilitary presence, and barricades – all to thwart the separatist marches to the Civil Lines. The UN's Military Observer Group's summer headquarters, looking over India and Pakistan, frequently played backdrop to such dramatic standoffs.
Yasin Malik, JKLF's chief residing closeby at Maisuma, was a regular at these demonstrations. Whenever a call for protest emerged, law enforcement swiftly shut down the area, transforming it into an eerie ghost town. Even main thoroughfares like Maulana Azad Road or Residency Road would be deserted, with not a soul in sight.
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Fast forward to today, just half a decade post the disintegration of the Mufti-led government, and it's not just Lal Chowk but the entire Srinagar, along with nine rural district headquarters, that exudes peace. Gone are the tumultuous days marked by mob clashes, stone-pelting, separatist marches, and other violent incidents.
Indeed, post the monumental constitutional amendments of 2019, separatist violence has witnessed a dramatic decline. Daily life events, from funerals to academics, proceed without hitches. Notably, both trade and tourism sectors are on an upward trajectory. Traders from Srinagar and beyond, especially those in the Srinagar Civil Lines, are experiencing unprecedented prosperity, a first since 1988.
Reflecting on Lal Chowk's storied past, we see its pivotal role in Kashmir's history. It was here, back in 1932, a year after Bollywood's inaugural sound film ‘Alam Ara’ premiered, that Bhai Anant Singh Gauri established Kashmir’s maiden cinema, Palladium Talkies. This iconic theater screened 'Alam Ara' and, in 1947, became the base for Sheikh Mohammad Abdullah's initiatives.
The National Militia, a brigade of Kashmiri men and women, became the first locals to take up arms in support of the Indian Army. Their clarion call, "Hamla Aawar Khabardaar, Ham Kashmiri Hain Tayyar," became synonymous with their undeterred spirit. This location also witnessed then-Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru and Sheikh Abdullah address a vast congregation of their fellow Kashmiris.
The journey of Lal Chowk, from its cinematic beginnings to its political prominence, is a testament to Kashmir's undying spirit and its intertwining with India's national fabric.
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Lal Chowk: An Epicenter of Kashmir's Political Evolution
Over the last half-century, Srinagar's Lal Chowk has been more than a mere witness to the political mosaic of Kashmir. It has, in fact, played a prominent role, shaping and reflecting the area's complex dynamics.
One of the most significant milestones in the chowk's history was in February when Sheikh Mohammad Abdullah received a rousing welcome from his ardent supporters. This was after he abandoned his 'Mahaz-e-Raishumari' and transitioned back into mainstream politics, becoming the Chief Minister. The support from then Prime Minister Indira Gandhi was a clear indication of shifting political alignments. In an impassioned speech, the Sheikh did not hold back his feelings towards Pakistan, criticizing its raids on Kashmir and its purported double standards.
The 1980s brought with it more transformations. A pivotal moment arrived when the old Clock Tower was resurrected by the Bajaj business group. Amidst tense circumstances, following a clash between taxi drivers and soldiers, Sheikh once again took to the stage to pacify heightened emotions. He played a vital role in bridging the growing divide between the civilians and the Indian Army.
However, the late 80s and early 90s were a turbulent period for Lal Chowk. Chief Minister Farooq Abdullah, during this time, took a strong stance against Pakistan, cautioning Kashmiris against the dangers of gun culture. The subsequent years saw the area marred by terror attacks, pro-azadi processions, and significant damage to several of its business centers and landmarks, including the historic Palladium.
Lal Chowk also played host to national leaders. In January 1992, amidst serious threats, BJP stalwarts Murli Manohar Joshi and Narendra Modi made a brave journey to Srinagar, hoisting the Indian national flag at Lal Chowk, reaffirming India's sovereignty over the territory.
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The separatist leader Shabir Shah's call for unity among separatist factions also echoed in the Chowk, a call that eventually faded, much like Shah's own prominence in the political scene.
The years 2010 and onwards saw intensified upheaval. Incidents like the damaging of the Clock Tower, the raising of green Pakistani flags, and the tragic assassination of journalist Shujaat Bukhari, mere yards away from the chowk, painted a grim picture.
However, after the dismissal of the Mehbooba Mufti government in June 2018, the tumultuous tide began to change. The post-2019 phase saw a drastic reduction in separatist demonstrations, acts of terror, and other disturbances in Lal Chowk. The old Clock Tower, too, underwent a transformation in 2022, with a new majestic tower being erected as part of the Srinagar Smart City Mission.
The changing policies under Prime Minister Modi's leadership have undeniably influenced the current state of peace and normalcy in the region. However, the resilience and the indomitable spirit of the Kashmiri people, who have consistently distanced themselves from violence and extremism post-2018, have played an equally significant role.
Today, as Lal Chowk stands tall, it not only represents Kashmir's tumultuous past but also its promising future—a future where peace and prosperity reign supreme.
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